Driving in the United States

More than a week ago, I drove from Provo to St. Louis in one go. I had only been back in the country (and time zone) for about a week at this point, but I felt my hours were still crazy enough to pull it off. And they were. Or I am still crazy enough to pull it off, which is inarguable. Anyway, I decided to finally drive through all of Colorado in the daylight. The last couple of times I have driven across Colorado, it has always been at night, and while I love to imagine gaping black holes of mountains and forests on either side of me while I drive, I decided it might be nice to see the whole thing again. The last time I saw Colorado in the daytime was more than a decade ago when I was driving the Ford Aspire aka "Ping" while my father was driving the airport bus aka "The White Whale" caravaning as we moved from Kansas City to Seattle. Memories of the landscape are vague. I most vividly remember losing my father (before the days when we both had cell phones) and both making long distance calls to my mother to find out where the other one was. Elinor was riding with me at that point and we got to stop in beautiful Idaho Springs, Colorado. I also remember when my tire blew out on a narrow two lane road down into Utah. I got to drive very slowly on the spare and there was a very long line of traffic by the time I got to the town in the valley.

This time was much less eventful. But very beautiful. I'm not sure how vistas of just trees and mountains can pull the breath out of you as you try to say anything relevant. Millions of years of geological and biological forces result in something that our petty version of aesthetics considers beautiful and there is nothing I can say to even describe the grandeur of these rooted rocks reaching up through soil, humus, and forests, all barely covering their surface. Anyway, after all this intense nature, I stopped in Denver to see The Dark Knight at a movie theatre. A nice break with some wifi to check email and facebook. Then the trip in the dark through Kansas. I stopped to nap twice and it was daylight by the time I recognized some exits around Kansas City. Before I left Utah, I was staying in the house I used to live in and camping on the bed I used to sleep on. I had been course marshaling the Tour of Utah bike race for the week before so I hadn't had a chance to see any movies or even sleep much the night before I began to drive. I needed those naps. I wasn't until afternoon that I reached St. Louis with a hotel reservation waiting. People entering Nirvana could not have felt as I did entering that hotel room. By the time I was driving into St. Louis, a massive hail storm was inundating the cars and road with sheets of rain designed expressly to make driving nearly impossible. After many many hours of driving, this was the last obstacle in my obstacle course across the states. And then I arrived in the largest hotel room I had stayed in in a very long time. Much larger than any in Europe - even the really nice ones. So nice and spacious. I immediately explored the hot tub to work out a stiff back before the heavenly collapse into bed.

But then the jet lag returned with a vengeance. Ever since returning from Europe, I had been encountering problems with experiencing a restful night. But now it was happening after driving across the country. Maybe it was because it was too easy. This wasn't like driving in Europe where I was constantly stressed about tickets being mailed to me if I was a couple kilometers per hour over the speed limit. I'm sure Switzerland is waiting to send a stack to me. This was just so easy. I just drove. No cameras, and if there were they wouldn't be mailing me a ticket from them. Maybe that was it. The long drive across the country wasn't hard enough. So, I wasn't tired enough to sleep in this beautifully soft bed. Maybe I should have stayed in Colorado under the mountains. Even if I couldn't sleep there, I could sit next to the unsleeping rocks, always awake and moving on a microscopic level or less. Watching the fast world that needs so much sleep.

The beginning of the end: Trieste and Venice

Well, after a beautiful drive through Slovenia, Google Maps and the directions involved ceased working as soon as we got to Italy. Somehow I directed us through Trieste to parking near the hotel only to discover upon check in that there was no internet. We have been pretty heavily relying on internet, so this was a blow. But the hotel was right down the street from the ocean and within walking distance to a lavanderie, so there were benefits. We washed clothes that night and fell into an exhausted slumber. Upon waking we set out in search for a beach. We started the search at about 8 am and didn't find it until 10 am. We used Google maps on Kitz's iPad. Despite these setbacks, it was a gorgeous day at the beach. We laid around, bought some granitas, swam some, and laid around some more. I could already feel the vacation fatigue taking me over a few days before when Kitz and I got into an argument because neither of us would make a decision about what we wanted to do in Vienna. I've done and seen so much, I'm not sure I want to do and see anything anymore. It is all beautiful, but I stopped planning. I stopped caring. I'm still loving it, but how much vacation can one person take?

Even on the beach, I was reading some Walter Benjamin to wake up my mind a bit. I've been reading him off and on, but I have started to really need him. Vacation is not something I do much of and until this summer, it has never been long term. So, I am here in Italy and enjoying it, but even more glad it is coming to an end. The beaches in Trieste are not sandy, but rocky. We went to a beach club and hired two lounge chairs for the day under the awning, though we pulled them in and out of the sun throughout the day. There were steps carved in rocks leading down to the sea, and the water was so cold and perfect. I love swimming in the sea with the waves and the salt water. I swam out nearly to the floating barriers so I could look at Trieste and the castelo right by the beach. Boats kept going into the harbor then out to the Adriatic. It was so perfect. I love days that seem so perfect because they are so perfect. That was one of them.

We visited the square of Trieste, ate some seafood, and poured on the apres soleil cream that night. Then we went to sleep quite late. This did not help the morning. Kitz woke up in a particularly nasty mood, caused by the beginnings of illness and being unable to find church that morning or use any free wifi in Italy because we didn't have an Italian phone number. I stopped talking to her until she cheered up, which wasn't for a while. We started out drive over to Venice early and (a miracle) I somehow directed us to the hotel without directions or a map of the area. We had a large map of Venice and environs, so I knew the approximate area, but with all the problems we have had in finding anything in Italy with directions, this was a miracle and appropriately called such. As soon as we got to the hotel, Kitz slept, and including breaks to eat, slept through the next day. I was fine with this day of doing very little, and proceeded to do very little. If she wasn't going to be better by the next day, Tuesday, I would be going to explore Venice myself. But after her very long sleep to stave off illness, she was better enough to explore. I had found a nearby market, so she was still eating, though not up to her standard.

We got to Venice by bus, and commenced the wandering. That's all I really wanted to do. When Kitz found out I was fine with getting lost in Venice (it's an island) with absolutely no goals of what to see, she was a bit upset. Well, that's what she gets if she leaves me in charge and I am vacationed-out. I didn't feel like making a single plan or even read much about what to see. If you have ever vacationed with me, my time is usually tightly scheduled and there are usually trails I want to hike, or things I want to do. This is the new me. The me who has had too much vacation. I really loved wandering. We went into some churches and shops. We stopped for lunch. Kitz used a map and we found some nice tourist-y spots, but for the main, we wandered. I would stop, take a picture. Kitz would try to figure out where we were. Eventually Kitz wanted to go to the Jewish Ghetto, so we did. We got to tour three of the original synagogues from the Ghetto. I also learned that the "Ghetto" or "Getto" in Venice is the original ghetto. The Jews were forced to move into an area by the foundry, which is why it was called the Getto, which means metal cast. The Germans naturally mispronounced it, and thus areas that were segregated and nominated "Jew areas" became "Ghettos." It was an awesome tour. It was quite small. A Spanish family was on it, but left half through, which left just us and four elderly French Jews. It was in English, but you had to be on a guided tour to see the synagogues, so I don't think they understood much, but they wanted to see. Very nice people.

Anyway, we wandered and then went back for the night to rest. The next day we went out to the "Garden Island" of Sant'Erasmo. Kitz was hoping to rent bikes so we could bike around this tiny island, but we never found the place to rent them. This island is quite small and very few people live there. I don't think you can ever drive full-size cars on the tiny roads here. They had some mini-trucks with three tires and I think a single cylinder engine. We walked to the beach and spent a few hours there, wading and sitting in the shallow water, then laying down to dry. I listened to To The Lighthouse by Virginia Woolf and read an interesting book called Wolves and Peasants 38% Notes 38% No Title 19% Dreamers 4%. I picked it up in Bologna at the modern art museum and liked it enough that Kitz insisted that I buy it. I have not regretted the purchase at all. I also stole Kitz's Economist to read when she wasn't looking. I've been listening to Virginia Woolf on and off, usually when Kitz is asleep since she and Virginia don't get along. I've read the book, so it is nice to just listen to it. After the beach, we wandered around the island. Kitz really wants to live in a little house with a garden. She wants to live on this island and if she ever comes back to Venice, she is going to stay at the one hostel there, even though the only way to get there is by waterbus. I just liked walking after laying down all day. I'm definitely getting fat, so we walked and eventually we found our way back to the waterbus to go back to Venice. Then another waterbus took us to the bus dropoff, then the bus took us back to the hotel. We got some food at the coop and I got yelled at by an Italian lady. They definitely have the crazy side to match the relaxed side.

Back at the hotel, I was done. I had to book some rooms for our drive back, but that was the end of my vacation.

But it doesn't end there. Does it? Driving back was another adventure. We somehow ended up driving through the Dolomites to Austria. Seriously, Google image search Dolomites. It was so beautiful. Kitz was a bit upset at all the shifting and her leg had a cramp by the end of the day. (I did offer to drive.) We got through them to Austria, then drove through the Alps. Also gorgeous. We were headed to this little Gasthof between Ulm and Stuttgart in the town of Wiesensteig. We finally got there and our entrance seemed magical. Though the freeway was nearby, you had to descend on a switchback paved road past sheep to get to the town and once you entered, you had to fall in love it was so adorable. The Gasthof we stayed in was just as cute. They had an old wooden dollhouse in one corner, fully loaded with furniture and dolls and all their other decorations were just as quaint. It was a beautiful end to a beautiful day.

We finished The Return of the King, the movie, that night. We still have to finish the audiobook, but we will not with only seven hours left in the car. And that means that I will have to read the last couple chapters myself so I can remember the souring of the Shire. I much prefer the book to the movie in the case of The Return of the King. We did get very close to the end though for the audiobook. Maybe I will read it tonight before going to sleep next to Charles de Gaulle Airport. Maybe I won't. Soon I will be back on familiar territory and back to a life that I am used to, even if that includes moving very quickly to Saint Louis. It is all at an end and another chapter of life is beginning. I hope it includes me becoming a wizard, but I will be happy with anything.

Seegrote: Gollum's Cave

The mysterious Internet informed us that Europe's largest underground lake was just outsideVienna and with advertising like that, who could resist? Obviously, not us. On the way out of Vienna, we decided to have a visit. It was a little out of the way, but totally worth it.

As you may have heard, we have been listening to the audiobooks of Lord of the Rings while we have been driving around Europe. We have also been watching the movies. But we had no notion when we went to Seegrote that we would find Gollum's cave.

It really is just a flooded gypsum mine, but it looks so much cooler than that. They used it to film parts of that Disney Three Musketeers movie. But they used it to be underground waterway in Paris and as a jail. But Andy Serkis could seriously be hanging out there in a green suit.

The mine was used as a place where prisoners of war assembled plane components, but after World War II, I'm not sure what they did with it but some guys decided to stick a Christmas Tree in the water and leave it there for two years. I guess they got bored. Needless to say it was completely calcified. They had it on display. I haven't been so cold since Orkney Island as in that cave.

We had a nice boat ride around the mine and Bilbo Baggins could have been waiting on the shore, hiding from orcs. But we had to return back to the shore and back up the mine shaft to the hot and sunny weather outside. Then before we left Austria, we drove to the next town and wandered around the town of Mödling. In the town square, they seemed to be having a town garage sale with some food stands. We stopped for some food for the car and started the drove through Slovenia to Trieste.

Slovenia was one of the most beautiful countries to drive through. We entered there, having very few expectations, but it was so beautiful. It had the green hills and mountains of Austria and Switzerland with the onion-topped church towers of a more Eastern Europe. Also, it was so clean. In most countries, there have been houses that are dirty, falling down, or decayed. But Slovenia had mainly older, well-kept houses. There weren't even that many buildings in a modern style. It was like we went back in time on the motorway. Seriously, we only saw it from the car, and it was still so beautiful, I actually considered how nice a rural life would be. Hiking through such a landscape would be as nice as hiking through Switzerland. It would be the best life of leisure.

A love letter to Vienna

Vienna -

I wanted to tell you how much I loved you. Your transportation system is great, and your weather, though it rained a bit, was much better than the norm. I understood most things people were saying because they were speaking in German. I was even mistaken for a native speaker myself because of my apparent fluency.

In case I forget to mention it, I loved the Schönbrunn Palace. You may just think I am saying that and hyperbolizing an already hyperbolic praise note, but in truth, I loved it. After Versailles and the Prague Castle, I was a little hesitant. But then my sister made me watch Marie Antoinette the night before to try to prepare me for more palaces, and it worked. It wasn't off-puttingly gilded and large like Versailles. There was just enough gilding and the enormous size seemed pleasant instead of something that makes me want to start a revolution just looking at it. The grounds were also nice and not too large. The Privy Garden was nice and small, and the maze was awesome. The games in there for kids were just as much fun for me, though I may be almost 30 (though I usually only admit to 25 at most). So much fun. It was like that toy store in that ski town in the Alps that made me want to turn 7 all over again. It was just a perfect day at the Palace. We even bought tickets for the concert in the Orangerie, where Salieri and Mozart had their big face-off. The Classical and Operatic pieces were very nice and the lighting was nicely done. On the whole, the only downside was how crowded the Apple Strudel demonstration was and it was late. It was very entertaining once it started, but that wait was not fun in a crowded hall. The demonstration and strudel made up for it though.

I didn't love the Belvedere as much. We didn't visit the lower, just the upper for the art, and while it was a nice collection, it was a bit blah after the Kunsthistorisches Museum. The Klimt exhibition was quite nice and worth it, but the rest was unimpressive for the most part. The Modern Art was the best, especially the Van Gogh you had, but maybe it is my lack of affinity with the Baroque and Romantic Austrian painters that left me a bit underwhelmed. The Belvedere grounds were also nothing the scream about, though the Botanic Garden next door was enchanting.

But then we found the Hundertwasser Museum. Nice work on bringing that man into the world. He may be a little crazy and eccentric, but exceptionally interesting art and architecture. Everyone should learn about this guy. Frankly, I agree that all houses having flat floors is a bit arbitrary and inorganic. Why can't all buildings have floors more bumpy and in line with nature? The Man probably likes straight lines too. Anyway, I would definitely encourage studying Hundertwasser in all school cirriculums.

I would also encourage more theatre study in school as well for obvious reasons. I went to tour the Vienna Opera House and while I can allow for a certain amount of ignorance among tourists who are on this tour because they can't see the opera since it is their holiday, but some of the questions these people asked could have been easily answered by Wikipedia. Our poor Italian guide spoke some English, but it wasn't the best and she could not project, so she tried but sometimes these questions were ridiculous. She did a good job with the relevant questions and by the end I think everyone appreciated how much work went into every piece performed. Now, I may be harsh, but some of these people were quite nice. The family from New Orleans was nice, but they did just need a bit more general theatrical knowledge. I know you, Vienna, as a city can do nothing about any of this, so I will just be appreciative of the tour that lets people know just a taste of what knowledge they are being deprived of because they prefer tax refunds to education. Anyway, enough of my rant and on to more about you, Vienna.

I would like to complement you on the historical center. So often in the center of town, I feel crowded, but with so few vehicles allowed in and the main area for pedestrians, it was so open and friendly. The Hofburg, splendid as expected. Karlsplatz and Karlskirche were magnificent. Stephansdom was nice if under construction. I am an understanding person, so I do realize construction has to be done even if it seems like a lot is being done at the moment. But we went to a organ concert for free at Peterskirche and it was amazing. The atmosphere of the church and the wonderful sound of the organ was right on. Keep up the good work with those organists!

Now the Rathausplatz was not under construction but was completely obstructed by the Film Festival. I usually love film festivals, but after looking at the schedule, there seemed to be more concerts and musical events than films. That is not a film festival, which includes mainly films. I know you probably have little control over the artistic types who run the festival, but you may want to mention the extraordinary lack of films at their film festival. Just something to keep in mind. The Rathaus was obstructed with a screen which seemed to serve very little purpose and could probably have been re-set-up for the few films they were showing so in the meantime it did not continually obstruct views of the beautiful Rathaus.

Nice use of green space. There were so many parks I often felt like I wasn't in a city at all, which is the highest complement I can give. They were beautiful and never too crowded, except with pigeons, which I consider rats on wings. But unless you are going to shoot them all, there are few humane ways to get rid of them. I would suggest signs telling tourists not to feed the pigeons. I saw many of these people feeding the pigeons as if that was a good idea and encouraging their children the feed these pests. Now I am sure, Vienna, that you agree with me about the pesky, destructive nature of pigeons. Therefore, since parents are obviously enabling future generations to increase the possibility of being overrun by these vermin, signs would be appropriate to police these idiotic parents. London has signs everywhere, so don't feel like you would be the only city trying to halt the growing pigeon population.

Despite the construction, Kunsthistorisches Museum was beautiful and I was very pleased that your docents knew their jobs in stopping illiterate patrons from taking flash photography. Some city's docents get lazy at their jobs or even give up (Paris comes to mind), but yours were firm and did not let any one person get away with disobeying the rules. As a firm believer in obeying the rules, I find it horrifying that so many people believe that rules are only in force if someone is there to enforce them. This underlying lack of integrity for the much of the human race (including parents rearing children to disobey even their own rules if they are not present to enforce them) makes me quite sure that situations like the financial crisis of a few years ago will happen again and again. Lack of ethical integrity has become common and will eventually (I predict in a somewhat far-fetched fashion) lead to the disintegration of civilization as we know it. For what is society and civilization anyway but living by rules so that people can live harmoniously together without resorting to the rule of the strongest? These people may just be disobeying a small rule, but it is only one instance of a global epidemic. I am glad, Vienna, that your docents are not shirking their duties, but rigorously policing those who lack integrity, at least in the domains you control.

Lastly, I am going to again mention your public transportation and road signage. Having recently returned to Italy, where Google Maps cannot function, I greeted your road signage and city setup as a paradisiacal. Signs were there and mostly legible! Also, there was adequate parking. Italians seem to believe that double parking is normal and has no effect on blocking traffic at all. Your foresight and planning in the ways of traffic and parking, all assisted by an excellent public transportation system. Frankly, your well laid-out city is a work of organizational genius comparable with SimCity while many Italian cities are still made of legos. Now, I do admit some Italian cities have definitely started to work on city planning and Florence and Venice have adapted considerably because of high volumes of tourists, but they are nothing on the level you are at. London is comparable, but even Paris does not come close to your level.

Vienna, while this note is and shall remain hyperbolic, it attempts to express my true feelings about my visit to you. Do not discount these words, even if they are meant in some levity, but think of the underlying emotion that had to be present for me to write them at all.

I remain a sincere admirer,
Alexis